wine & dine

HIGH TEA, HIGH PROFILE

The Old English Tradition Is A Hot New Trend

By Elizabeth Heiberger

On a rainy spring day, afternoon tea at the Ritz-Carlton's Greenhouse did more than get us out of the soggy weather. With the gentle sound of the fountain's gurgling water and a delightful array of finger foods in front of us, we were able to completely lose ourselves in cups of aromatic tea that were among the best we'd ever tasted. Families, grandmothers with granddaughters, couples and groups of female friends alike all gathered to share in the herbal refreshment and tiers of tasty treats. Intrigued, we looked into the tradition of tea and found there's more than one way to steep a tea bag. Luckily, plenty of Chicago spots are offering a little respite from the city's hustle and bustle with a full-on tea revival.

In the mid 1800s, with noon lunch and 9pm dinner, the Duchess of Bedford had tea with bread and butter served in the mid-afternoon. As this became a daily occurrence, she invited other ladies and the social event of "afternoon tea" was created.

During this same period, "high tea" was more of a man's meal served at 6pm with Welsh Rabbit, Shepherd's Pie, steak, bread, butter, potatoes, pickles, cheese and, of course, tea. Over time, the more regal-sounding "high tea" has been used interchangeably with "afternoon tea."

This traditional afternoon tea now includes a pot of fine tea with many types available for your perusal. Afternoon tea service comes with a three–tiered display of finger sandwiches and other dainty delectables. An assortment of Devonshire cream, jam and lemon curd is also available for scones and pastries. For an additional price, most restaurants provide a choice of champagnes or wines to upgrade to Royal Tea – a special indulgence on a weekday afternoon or a unique way to while away a Saturday.

While most afternoon tea establishments in Chicago follow these same guidelines, each has specialties that make their service stand out:

Chalkboard has partnered with Sweet Signature Bakery to offer custom-created pastries. Also adding to their allure is a selection of coffee, espresso or cappuccino available.

While most finger sandwiches have exotic names leaving you guessing what ingredients were used, The Drake Chicago offers an assortment of delightful sandwiches, including roast beef, egg salad and asparagus and ham.

The Peninsula Chicago boasts a three-course Royal-Tea beginning with truffled scrambled eggs. Their tea stand holds chocolate covered strawberries dipped in gold leaf, chive blini with crème fraiche and caviar, and much more. A trio of crème brulee, candied rose petals and fine chocolates punctuates the experience.

The spiced cinnamon plum tea at The Ritz-Carlton Chicago is some of the best we've ever had. The cinnamon was strong, but not overbearing; milk and a sugar cube only enhanced the flavor. Pair that with a fresh scone topped with Devonshire cream and a bite-sized bit of warm toffee custard and your experience is sure to leave you more than satisfied.

Tea service at Russian Tea Time promises to provide nostalgic cuisine of the former Soviet Union. Their crunchy spring crepes infused with a delicate peanut sauce are unlike anything found at any other afternoon tea.

With five types of service, Unique So Chique has the most options available. They're the only place to offer traditional high tea with shepherd's pie made in-house. Also check out their new Tea-ny room for 14 people.

HIGH TEA AT HOME

Don't want to leave home for high tea? You're in luck, as women are also holding tea parties at home for any occasion, ranging from birthdays to fundraisers. "There are many components to a High Tea party," explains Sun-Rich International spokesperson Donna Jacobs. "The most important parts are friends or family, a pot of hot tea and irresistible finger foods!"

In regards to china, Donna says, "There are no rules. If you're having a themed party, such as kid's tea or a baby shower, feel free to use themed plates in place of china."

Invitations are another essential element. "To have a good turnout, send invitations one month prior to the event," advises Donna. "If you're having your party in the summer, send them out six weeks ahead of time."

To brew the perfect cup of tea, Donna offers these five steps:
Quality "Perfect tea starts with a high quality product," says Donna. Darjeeling tea is very popular and comes in a variety of flavors.
Water "Never re-boil water sitting in your pot," Donna warns. This sitting water is not fully oxygenated. Instead, immediately pour the water over tea after boiling; water that has been boiled too long has less oxygen, making for a weaker flavor of tea.
Amount "Measure your tea carefully, and use one teaspoon of tea per person," says Donna. "If you'd like stronger tea, add one (teaspoon) for the pot."
Steeping "Tea needs to steep long enough to release the full flavor, but over-steeping makes for a bitter cup of tea," says Donna. "No need to dunk – just let the leaves steep naturally. After steeping, remove the tea leaves."
Sweeteners "You can add what you think tastes best," shares Donna. The traditional additives include honey, sugar (white or brown), cream, lemon and milk to taste.

Finger foods are all available at your local bakery and specialty shops. If you'd like to make your own, visit www.tcwmag.com for a variety of recipes, including Cucumber Tea Sandwiches with Mint, Cinnamon Scones, Devonshire cream and others.

Whether you decide to host your own tea party or step out with friends, Donna's advice to "unplug for a while, take care of yourself and spend time with friends" still rings true.

Cucumber Tea Sandwiches with Mint

You can't get more refreshing than a mix of cucumber slices and fresh mint. A cool sandwich to go with your hot tea. I love the crisp feel of cucumber along with the smooth cream cheese.

INGREDIENTS:

• 1/2 Seedless cucumber, peeled and sliced
  
• 1/4 cup fresh mint, chopped
  
• 1/4 cup butter, soft
  
• 1/4 cup cream cheese
  
• 16 slices white bread
  

PREPARATION:
Blot cucumber slices to dry them off. In a mixing bowl, blend mint, butter and cream cheese. Spread mixture on each slice of bread. Lay cucumber slices on 8 slices of bread and sprinkle with salt. Top with remaining bread and remove crusts. Cut sandwiches into either halves or quarters (diagonally).

Cinnamon Scones

If you're new to the world of home-made scones, then this is the perfect recipe for you to start with. It's simple and basic, but tastes great with just a hint of cinnamon. Goes with any spread.

INGREDIENTS:

• 2 cups white flour
  
• 1/3 cup sugar
  
• 1 tbs baking powder
  
• 1 tsp cinnamon
  
• 1/4 tsp salt
  
• 1/2 cup butter
  
• 2/3 cup milk
  
• 1 egg, slightly beaten
  
• 1 tsp vanilla
  

PREPARATION:
Preheat oven to 400F. Blend together flour, sugar, baking powder, cinnamon and salt. Cut in butter. Mix milk, egg and vanilla in another mixing bowl. Add to the flour mixture, and stir until just moist. Shape dough into an 8-inch round loaf. cut into 8 wedges and separate slightly. Bake for 15-20 minutes.
Makes 8 scones

Devonshire Cream

This isn't a true clotted cream, but it's pretty close. An easy introduction to the fine world of clotted cream on scones.

INGREDIENTS:

• 8 oz cream cheese
  
• 12 oz sour cream
  
• Juice from 1 lemon
  
• 2 tsp vanilla
  
• 2 cups powdered sugar
  

PREPARATION:
Blend all ingredients until smooth.

Capers and Salmon Sandwiches

A spiced little sandwich with smoked salmon, capers and horseradish. These bold sandwiches are not for the faint of heart. The flavours are strong and potent.

INGREDIENTS:

• 1/4 cup mayonnaise
  
• 1 tbs chives, minced
  
• 1 tbs dill, chopped
  
• 1 tbs capers
  
• 1 1/2 tsp horseradish
  
• 8 slices of bread
  
• 1 1/2 tsp butter, soft
  
• 4 slices smoked salmon
  
• 12 slices cucumber, thin
  

PREPARATION:
Combine mayo, chives, dill, capers and horseradish. Spread bread with butter, then mayo mixture. Layer with slices of salmon and cucumber, then top with bread. Slice each salmon sandwich into triangles.

Shrimp Toast

You can taste all the hard work that goes in to making this warm shrimp spread on toast points. The toast may be crisp, but the shrimp spread will melt in your mouth.

INGREDIENTS:

• 8 slices white bread, sliced thin
  
• 1 egg, separated
  
• 1 egg yolk
  
• 1 lb shrimp, deveined
  
• 2 tbs heavy cream
  
• 1 tbs vodka
  
• 1 tsp salt
  
• 1/2 cup water chesnuts, finely chopped
  
• 2 scallions, minced
  
• 3 tbs butter, melted
  
• 3 tbs water
  

PREPARATION:
Preheat oven to 250 degrees. Cut each slice of bread into 4 triangles. Bake on a baking sheet for 30 minutes, until it's dry but not brown. Meanwhile, lightly beat the egg white. Blot shrimp dry on paper towel and puree in a food processor. Add egg white, cream , vodka and salt. Blend until mixed. In a mixing bowl, combine shrimp mixture with water chestnuts and scallions. Increase oven temperature to 350 degrees. Add 2 teaspoons of mixture on top of each bread triangle. Beat yolks and water together and brush over each shrimp triangle. Place on greased baking sheet and bake for 12 minutes or until cooked through.

Banbury Cakes

Puff pastry with a filling of mixed peel, raisins and currants. If you like an English flair to your afternoon tea service, then you must serve sweet little Banbury cakes.

INGREDIENTS:

• 1 lb puff pastry
  
• 2 oz melted butter
  
• 4 oz raisins
  
• 4 oz currants
  
• 2 oz mixed peel
  
• 4 oz brown sugar
  
• Icing sugar
  

PREPARATION:
Preheat oven to 425F. Combine melted butter, raisins, currants, peel and sugar, and mix thoroughly. Roll out pastry on a floured board. Cut out 16 circles, using a small saucer as a guide. Place some fruit mixture in the middle of each circle. Fold the edges of the pastry up over the fruit and seal closed. Turn each one over and press down gently with a rolling pin. Make 3 diagonal cuts on the tops of each cake and sprinkle with icing sugar. Bake for 15-20 minutes until golden.
Makes 16 Banbury cakes

Butter Tarts

A simple and classic sweet for afternoon tea. They're so decadent, it's hard to believe how easy they are to make. If you like to bake, you could try using home-baked tart shells.

INGREDIENTS:

• 2/3 cup brown sugar
  
• 1/4 cup butter
  
• 1 cup corn syrup
  
• 2 eggs
  
• 1 tsp vanilla extract
  
• Unbaked tart shells
  

PREPARATION:
Preheat oven to 350F. Boil corn syrup with sugar for 5 minutes, until fully dissolved. Add butter and stir well. Let cool until just warmer than room temp. In a mixing bowl, beat eggs and vanilla. Add egg mixture to sugar syrup. Pour into unbaked tart shells (about 2/3 full). Bake for about 15 minutes. Time may vary depending on how large your butter tarts are.

Almond Popovers

Delicate and flaky little popovers for afternoon tea, loaded with almond flavour. You won't even need to spread anything on these baked gems. Well, maybe a little dollop of clotted cream.

INGREDIENTS:

• 3 eggs
  
• 2/3 cup milk
  
• 1/3 cup almond liqueur
  
• 3 tbs butter, melted
  
• 1 cup flour
  
• 1/4 cup toasted almonds, ground
  
• 1/4 tsp salt
  
• 3 tbs sliced almonds
  

PREPARATION:
Preheat oven to 375F and move rack to the lowest position in your oven. Grease 6 custard cups (6-oz each). Beat eggs with an electric mixer at low speed for about a minute. Beat in milk, liqueur and butter until well blended. Continue to beat, and add flour, ground almonds and salt. Pour batter into the custard cups, and sprinkle with sliced almonds. Bake for 40 minutes. Put a small slit in the top of each one to release steam. Bake for another 5-10 minutes until brown on top.
Makes 6 popovers

Clotted Cream

Rich and creamy, this spread is the perfect addition to scones, cookies and other sweets.

INGREDIENTS:
1 pint whole milk OR double cream (UNhomogenized)

PREPARATION:
Pour milk or cream into a shallow pan. If using milk, let sit for 24 hours. Heat the pan to about 180F for around an hour. The surface will become thick and yellow. Turn off the heat and let cool. Skim off the rich cream and serve.
Serves 4–6